Fewer places,
more dolce far niente.
Most guides to Tuscany are lists. This one is an opinion. We keep a short book of the places, tables, hills and habits we would send a friend to, and we drop anything that stops being true. Nothing here is sponsored; some of it is not even open on Mondays.
Drive slowly. Order the house wine. Leave the afternoon empty.
Sagre
A ‘Sagra’ is an authentic Italian food festival celebrating traditional recipes, local wine, and incredible vibes. Here are epic sagre you can’t miss. Tap a pin for the dish, scroll on for the dates.
Calendar
Food stands open around 19:00. Cash preferred; the larger sagre take cards. Follow the “Parcheggio Sagra” signs, if you find one.
To be updated New sagre go on the map and into the calendar as soon as the dates are out, all through autumn. Stay tuned.
Places
Places we keep going back to. No order, no ranking, just the ones we would drive for.
-
Along the walls, late afternoon Hilltop village
Tenuta di Casaglia
An authentic, family-owned hilltop village in the heart of Tuscany, and a dream location for family holidays. There is a pool for the long afternoons; meals are not included, so bring the market home and cook with the doors open.
- Go for
- The pool, the view, the quiet
- Note
- No food included · Car needed
- Season
- April to late October
-
Montepulciano · Wine bar
La Vineria di Montepulciano
A small vineria on the hill where you order the board of local cheeses and cured meats, a plate of pici with ragù, and a glass of whatever they are pouring from Montepulciano that week. Sit, stay, order a second glass.
Open in MapsThe counter, second glass in -
Florence · Cinema & bookshop
Giunti Odeon
The most beautiful cinema and bookstore I have ever been to. Part of the city's cinematic history since 1922, today a unique mix of cinema, bookshop and café. A true gem: put this one on the list while visiting Tuscany.
giuntiodeon.comWatch the reelBooks under the balcony. Tap for the reel -
Val d'Orcia · Hilltop town
Pienza
Have a glass of wine and a board of cold cuts and cheese with that iconic view over the rolling hills of Val d'Orcia. The quiet stone alleys lined with flowers, the warm, timeless atmosphere: honestly, nothing else compares. Pienza, for me, is pure magic. Go off season, in May or late September.
Idyllium PienzaThat view, from the table -
Pietrasanta · Antiques
Antiquariato Il Centrale
One of the dreamiest antique finds. Il Centrale has honestly the most beautiful collection I have ever seen, at surprisingly reasonable prices: delicate porcelain, silver and classic cutlery, gorgeous glasses, tea cups and so many other unique treasures. An absolute must if you love timeless pieces.
ilcentrale.comSilver, porcelain, and more silver -
Florence · Schiacciata
I Girone De' Ghiotti
Florence is packed with schiacciata spots and choosing just one feels impossible. Fate guided me here, and it was genuinely one of the best sandwiches of my life: the Galosa No. 7, and I cannot recommend it enough. There will be a queue. First, it is worth the wait; second, it moves fast; third, queueing is always a nice excuse to talk to somebody.
Find itFresh from the oven, mid-queue -
Viareggio · Dinner on the lake
Chalet del Lago
Highly recommended by my Airbnb host, this spot offers a truly special dining experience right over the water. They serve incredible grilled fish and delicious local dishes, surrounded by warm, welcoming people. Inside, you’ll find a cozy space filled with beautiful paintings, but nothing beats sitting outside at dusk: enjoying dinner with a view of the sunset reflecting on the lake is just breathtaking.
Make sure to book your table!
chaletdellago.it+39 0584 359830The terrace, just before dinner -
Among the vines · Restaurant
Ristorante Casariccio
Imagine sitting right in the middle of the vineyards, sipping a glass of wine while looking at the exact vines it came from. The whole experience is just unbelievable. Locanda Casariccio is one of those hidden, magic spots you will never find in a standard guidebook.
@locandacasariccioWatch the reel+39 055 992980Dusk in the garden. Tap for the reel -
Valdarno · Bakery & bar
Menchetti
If you’re looking for a wonderful breakfast spot in Valdarno, this is it! Don’t worry, you won’t find only croissants or cornetti here (though I highly recommend trying the one filled with white chocolate!).
Beyond sweet pastries, they offer a fantastic selection of savory snacks, freshly baked bread, and exceptional coffee, all served in an amazing, busy bee atmosphere.
menchetti.itMorning at the counter
Tables
Where to eat, and when. Tuscany runs on a schedule; this is it.
Three tables we would drive an hour for: Locanda Casariccio, La Botteghina di Civitella and Osteria Paradiso da i' Frasca.
The Hills
Five Tuscanys, from the marble in the north to the sea in the south.
- ChiantiVines, castles, the road everyone takes and should.
- Val d'OrciaBare hills, one cypress, a very good lunch.
- MaremmaCowboys, pine forest, the coast Italians keep for themselves.
- GarfagnanaChestnut woods and marble mountains, an hour from Lucca.
- Crete SenesiClay, white roads, and truffles in November.
Stays
Sleep in a place with a history, a pool, and no reception desk.
To be curated
A short list of places to sleep is on its way. Until then, ask on Instagram.
Journal
Notes from the road, filed when we get around to it.
Written from
a terrace in Tuscany.
Ciao, I’m Agnes. Explore Tuscan Life was born spontaneously, simply because I’ve always loved sharing beautiful places and incredible food with people. Today, it’s written and curated entirely by me. I live here, eat here, and keep a short book of the places worth your afternoon. The daily version of this guide lives on Instagram: sagre, tables, and the road in between.
@exploretuscanlife Facebook EmailNothing here is sponsored, and it stays that way. If the guide saved you an afternoon, you can buy me a coffee: any amount, seven euro is the suggestion.
Support the guideLetters, occasionally
One note a month when something is worth the drive. No newsletters about newsletters.